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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.